The Good Cold — Michigan Winter
Crawford County & Au Sable River Valley · Town edition

Grayling

The canoe capital of the world set deep within the Huron-Manistee National Forest, famous for legendary trout streams and winter forestry.

Why winter

Grayling in winter is a pristine wilderness sanctuary. Surrounded by hundreds of thousands of acres of national forest, the town is a quiet haven for cross-country skiers, snowmobilers, and anglers who brave the cold to fish the legendary winter waters of the Au Sable River.

Overheard in Grayling
Grayling is internationally famous as the birthplace of modern canoe racing and home to the grueling 120-mile Au Sable River Canoe Marathon.
A random Saturday

No plans? Good. Try these.

A random Saturday · 01

Hanson Hills Trails & Brewpub Suppers

Spend the morning cross-country skiing the rolling pine loops at Hanson Hills Recreation Area, warm up with coffee and cinnamon rolls at Bee's Bakery, and enjoy wood-fired pizza at Paddle Hard Brewing.

Or try · 02

Au Sable River Casting & Supper Club Steaks

Watch winter fly-fishermen brave the frozen banks of the Au Sable River, explore downtown Grayling's river heritage shops, and indulge in prime rib at Ray'als Tavern.

Michigan winter
Michigan winter
Make it a weekend

Stay at a local lodge or cabin, spend Saturday skiing Hanson Hills and exploring downtown Grayling, and enjoy Sunday trout stream sightseeing.

One good day

Morning cross-country skiing at Hanson Hills, lunch at Spike's Keg o' North, afternoon river walk, and dinner at Paddle Hard Brewing.

Eat · good tables

Dinner, the warm part of the day.

  1. 01

    Ray'als Tavern & Restaurant

    Classic Up-North Supper Club · $$

    A beloved local landmark serving prime rib, steaks, seafood, and classic old fashioneds in a warm, rustic dining room.

    205 N James St, Grayling, MI 49738 · (989) 348-7532 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Paddle Hard Brewing

    Paddler-Themed Craft Brewpub · $$

    Vibrant downtown brewpub celebrating Au Sable River canoeing culture with house-brewed ales, wood-fired pizzas, and hearty pub fare.

    227 E Michigan Ave, Grayling, MI 49738 · (989) 745-3535 · Website ↗

  3. 03

    Spike's Keg o' North

    Historic Up-North Pub · $$

    A legendary Grayling gathering spot serving burgers, sandwiches, and cold drinks surrounded by vintage river memorabilia.

    301 Huron St, Grayling, MI 49738 · (989) 348-7113 · Website ↗

The winter table

The local plate.

Eat it at Paddle Hard Brewing

Wood-Fired River Pizza & Local Amber Ale

Top scratch pizza dough with smoked gouda, local bacon, caramelized onions, and mushrooms, baked in a wood-fired oven and paired with a rich amber ale.

Field note

Paddle Hard Brewing captures the adventurous spirit of local river guides and forest wanderers.

Michigan winter
Photo hunt

Three things most people walk past.

Au Sable River Bridge & Michigan Ave (Michigan Ave & James St, Grayling, MI 49738)

  1. Snow-draped cedar and pine trees lining the banks of the rushing Au Sable River.
  2. Historic brick storefronts along Michigan Avenue dusted with fresh powdery snow.
  3. The rustic wooden sign welcoming visitors to the Canoe Capital of the World.
A winter tall tale · as told in Grayling

What happened to Pere Cheney

Outside Grayling sits what is left of Pere Cheney, a lumber town that boomed and then emptied after a diphtheria outbreak in 1893. As the people left, a story grew that a banished witch had cursed the place. Today there is only a small cemetery in the woods, quiet in the snow, and still visited by people who have heard the tale.

Where it comes from: the source ↗

Michigan winter
Michigan winter
  1. 01

    Paddle Hard Brewing Taproom

    Craft Brewpub · $$

    The social epicenter of downtown Grayling, featuring local craft beer and lively weekend crowds.

    227 E Michigan Ave, Grayling, MI 49738 · (989) 745-3535 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Spike's Keg o' North

    Historic Pub · $$

    Classic up-north tavern atmosphere with deep roots in local river lore.

    301 Huron St, Grayling, MI 49738 · (989) 348-7113 · Website ↗

After dark · places to land

After nine, in February.

The Night Shift jacket
In the pictureThe Night Shift jacketCanvas, a blanket lining and pockets sized for gloves you will lose anyway. Built for the walk between Grayling bars.From the General Store →
Coffee & breakfast · start here

Coffee, and a seat by the window.

  1. 01

    Bee's Bakery & Cafe

    Coffee & breakfast

    Fresh morning coffee, homemade cinnamon rolls, and breakfast sandwiches on Michigan Avenue.

    214 E Michigan Ave, Grayling, MI 49738 · (989) 348-2333 · Website ↗

Enamel camp mug
In the pictureEnamel camp mugChips like a good one should. Ours has been to Grayling twice.From the General Store →
  1. 01

    Cross-Country Skiing Hanson Hills Recreation Area

    Outside

    Premier winter recreation center offering miles of expertly groomed cross-country ski trails, tubing hills, and downhill ski runs.

    7601 Lake Margrethe Rd, Grayling, MI 49738 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Winter Steelhead & Trout Fishing the Au Sable River

    Outside

    World-class fly fishing in the pristine, ice-bordered waters of the sacred Au Sable River.

    Wakeley Bridge & Burton's Landing, Grayling, MI 49738 · Website ↗

  3. 03

    Hanson Hills Winter Sports Shop

    Rent the gear

    Cross-country skis, snowshoes, downhill gear, and snow tubes

    7601 Lake Margrethe Rd, Grayling, MI 49738 · Website ↗

Outside · ways out the door

Go stand in it.

Michigan winter
Field note

Wading into the icy Au Sable River in winter to cast dry flies for elusive trout.

Local custom

Wading into the icy Au Sable River in winter to cast dry flies for elusive trout.

Local customs
  • Stopping at Paddle Hard Brewing for a wood-fired pizza and craft beer after cross-country skiing at Hanson Hills.
  • Hanson Hills is a beloved community-run winter park that has trained generations of Nordic and alpine skiers.
  • Paddle Hard Brewing captures the adventurous spirit of local river guides and forest wanderers.
On the calendar · 2026–27

Dates worth the drive.

Circle it

January 23, 2027

Grayling Winterfest & Au Sable Ice Jam

Winter festival celebrating river heritage with outdoor activities, chili cook-offs, and community bonfires.

Add to calendar Organizer ↗

Circle it

December 5, 2026

Grayling Holiday Parade & Tree Lighting

Add to calendar Organizer ↗

Dates come from organizers and change. Check before you drive.

Michigan winter
Michigan winter
  1. 01

    McGuire's Resort

    Up-North Lakeside Lodge · $$

    Comfortable lakeside lodge rooms with indoor pool, dining, and direct trail access near the Crawford County border.

    9433 S Otsego Lake Rd, Gaylord, MI 49735 (Near Grayling) · (989) 732-2459 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    River Country Motel

    Classic Downtown Motel · $$

    Clean, affordable lodging with easy access to downtown Grayling and surrounding national forest trails.

    1806 Salling Ave, Grayling, MI 49738 · (989) 348-5483 · Website ↗

Stay · places to wake up

A warm bed at the end of it.

Cabin Issue throw
In the pictureCabin Issue throwFifty by sixty inches of contour lines and pine shadow. The room in Grayling has a chair; this is what goes on it.From the General Store →
Bring a little Grayling homeThe Lake Effect mugHolds sixteen ounces of something hot and one strong opinion about the forecast.Have a look ↗
We checked

graylingchamber.com · hansonhills.org · paddlehardbrewing.com · rayals.com

Good to know: Hanson Hills is remarkably affordable and community-focused, making it a favorite family ski destination in Northern Michigan.

Reviewed October 2026. Hours, prices and dates move; call ahead in January and February.