The Good Cold — Michigan Winter
Western Upper Peninsula & Lake Superior / Porcupine Mountains · Town edition

Ontonagon

A remote wilderness port village at the edge of Lake Superior, serving as the gateway to the majestic Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park.

Why winter

Ontonagon in winter is the ultimate frontier wilderness experience. Flanked by the rugged, snow-choked peaks of the Porcupine Mountains ('Porkies') and the freezing shores of Lake Superior, it offers world-class downhill and Nordic skiing, monumental lake-effect snowfall, and profound, untouched North Woods solitude.

Overheard in Ontonagon
The Porcupine Mountains ('Porkies') preserve 60,000 acres of virgin old-growth hemlock and pine forest—the largest stand remaining in the Midwest.
A random Saturday

Nothing planned. Here’s the plan.

A random Saturday · 01

Porkies Powder & Cedar Taverns

Spend the day carving deep powder runs and glades at the Porcupine Mountains Ski Area overlooking Lake Superior, warm up with bakery pasties on River Street, and spend the evening at Tony's Cedar Bar.

Or try · 02

Lake of the Clouds Skiing & Waterfront Rooms

Cross-country ski the silent old-growth forest trails out to the frozen overlook at Lake of the Clouds, explore Ontonagon's historic riverfront, and relax at AmericInn on Lake Superior.

Michigan winter
Field note

Ontonagon embodies rugged, frontier U.P. isolation where winter weather is taken in stride and backcountry skiing is pursued with religious devotion.

One good day

Morning cross-country ski to Lake of the Clouds overlook, lunch at Linda's Bakery, afternoon downhill skiing at Porcupine Mountains Ski Area, and dinner at Tony's Cedar Bar.

Make it a weekend

Stay in a rustic wood-stove cabin inside Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, spend the weekend exploring backcountry powder and old-growth forests, and soak up true up-north wilderness solitude.

Eat · good tables

Order the soup. Then order the pie.

  1. 01

    The O-Sho Restaurant & Bar

    Classic Up-North Family Restaurant · $$

    A popular local dining spot on the edge of town serving hearty breakfasts, burgers, steaks, and comforting tavern classics for winter travelers.

    601 Greenland Rd, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · (906) 884-2565 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Tony's Cedar Bar & Restaurant

    Historic Up-North Tavern & Grill · $$

    A legendary cedar-log tavern near the entrance of the Porcupine Mountains, serving monstrous burgers, fish fries, and cold craft beer to skiers and snowmobilers.

    29103 Michigan St, Silver City, MI 49953 (Near Porkies) · (906) 885-4533 · Website ↗

  3. 03

    Linda's Bakery & Cafe

    Hometown Bakery · $

    Warm morning coffee, fresh-baked rolls, and pasties right on River Street in downtown Ontonagon.

    512 River St, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · (906) 884-2651 · Website ↗

Eat it at Tony's Cedar Bar & Restaurant

Up-North Cedar Burger & Craft Beer

Char-grill an Angus burger, top with bacon, cheddar, and grilled onions on a toasted bun, paired with a cold Michigan craft beer.

The winter table

The local plate.

Field note

Tony's Cedar Bar in Silver City serves as the legendary gathering den for backcountry powder hounds and snowmobilers.

Michigan winter
A winter tall tale · as told in Ontonagon

The Porcupine Mountains Snow Yeti

During the historic winter snowstorm of 2002 that dumped seven feet of powder across the Porcupine Mountains, backcountry rangers tracking timber wolves near Lake of the Clouds reported seeing massive ten-foot snowshoe tracks crossing the ridge that appeared to be made by someone wearing snowshoes the size of dining room tabletops. Old-timers in Ontonagon still smile and whisper that the Porkies giant was just out checking his favorite powder stash.

Tall tales grow in the telling. Take this one with road salt.

Photo hunt

Three things most people walk past.

Lake of the Clouds Overlook & Porkies Ski Area (Porcupine Mountains State Park, Ontonagon, MI 49953)

  1. The sweeping frozen basin of Lake of the Clouds surrounded by snow-draped old-growth hemlock forests.
  2. Alpine ski runs plunging toward the frozen blue expanse of Lake Superior at the Porkies ski hill.
  3. Snow-covered rustic cedar cabins tucked deep in the snowy wilderness.
Michigan winter
After dark · places to land

After nine, in February.

  1. 01

    Tony's Cedar Bar

    Legendary Porcupine Mountains Saloon · $$

    The ultimate après-ski watering hole near the Porkies; rustic, lively, and packed with backcountry skiers and wilderness rangers.

    29103 Michigan St, Silver City, MI 49953 · (906) 885-4533 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    The Firehouse Lounge

    Downtown Taproom · $$

    Cozy local tavern for evening drinks and friendly conversation by the river.

    408 River St, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · (906) 884-4800 · Website ↗

Coffee & breakfast · start here

Thaw here.

  1. 01

    Linda's Bakery

    Coffee & breakfast

    Hot morning coffee and fresh breakfast pastries on River Street.

    512 River St, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · (906) 884-2651 · Website ↗

Lake Effect mug
In the pictureLake Effect mugThe first cup of the day, and a forecast you can hold. Ontonagon mornings run on refills.From the General Store →
Outside · ways out the door

Outside, on purpose.

  1. 01

    Downhill Skiing & Backcountry Powder at Porcupine Mountains

    Outside

    Experience the highest ski vertical in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, featuring thrilling runs, glade skiing, and sweeping views over frozen Lake Superior.

    33300 Porcupine Mountain Rd, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Cross-Country Skiing Lake of the Clouds Trails

    Outside

    Pristine wilderness ski and snowshoe trails winding through ancient hemlock ravines out to the iconic frozen overlook of Lake of the Clouds.

    Porcupine Mountains State Park, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · Website ↗

  3. 03

    Porcupine Mountains Ski Area Rental Shop

    Rent the gear

    Downhill skis, snowboards, cross-country gear, and snowshoes

    33300 Porcupine Mountain Rd, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · Website ↗

Two-tone cap
In the pictureTwo-tone capFor the drive up, before the hat-hair matters.From the General Store →
Michigan winter
Michigan winter
Local custom

Hiking or skiing out to Lake of the Clouds overlook in winter to witness absolute silent wilderness wrapped in deep snowdrifts.

Local customs
  • Stopping at Tony's Cedar Bar for burgers and cold beer after carving powder runs at the Porkies ski area.
  • Ontonagon embodies rugged, frontier U.P. isolation where winter weather is taken in stride and backcountry skiing is pursued with religious devotion.
  • Tony's Cedar Bar in Silver City serves as the legendary gathering den for backcountry powder hounds and snowmobilers.
On the calendar · 2026–27

Circle these.

Circle it

February 13, 2027

Porcupine Mountains Winter Fest & Skijoring

Celebrating deep U.P. backcountry winter with ski races, skijoring (dogs pulling skiers), snowshoe hikes, bonfires, and music overlooking Lake Superior.

Add to calendar Organizer ↗

Circle it

December 4, 2026

Ontonagon Holiday Light Parade

Add to calendar Organizer ↗

Dates come from organizers and change. Check before you drive.

Michigan winter
Michigan winter
  1. 01

    Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park Cabins

    Remote Wilderness Ski-In Cabins · $$

    Rustic, wood-stove heated rental cabins scattered deep within Michigan's largest state park, accessible via winter ski or snowshoe treks.

    33300 Porcupine Mountain Rd, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · (906) 885-5275 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    AmericInn by Wyndham Ontonagon

    Lake Superior Waterfront Hotel · $$

    Comfortable waterfront lodging featuring indoor pool, sauna, and stunning winter views over Lake Superior.

    101 Ontonagon St, Ontonagon, MI 49953 · (906) 884-2030 · Website ↗

Stay · places to wake up

A warm bed at the end of it.

Nobody’s Going Out tea
In the pictureNobody’s Going Out teaLoose-leaf, for the evening the group chat agrees to stay in.From the General Store →
Bring a little Ontonagon homeThe enamel camp mugDents add character. So does a little cocoa on the rim.Have a look ↗
We checked

michigan.gov · ontonagonmi.org · tonyscedarbar.com

Good to know: The Porcupine Mountains receive immense lake-effect snowfall off Lake Superior; winter driving on M-107 requires caution and proper tires.

Reviewed October 2026. Hours, prices and dates move; call ahead in January and February.