A frozen pier and lighthouse at sunset on Lake Michigan
Leelanau Peninsula · Town edition

Leland

Weathered 19th-century fishing shanties suspended over a roaring river dam where Lake Leelanau meets the winter fury of Lake Michigan.

Overheard in Leland
Fishtown is not a museum replica; commercial fishing tugs still tie up against the ice here.
Why winter

Historic Fishtown in winter looks like an Andrew Wyeth painting come to life. The summer crowds jostling for pretzel-bread sandwiches vanish, leaving the grey-shingled smokehouses, the thundering Leland River dam, and a tight-knit village that gathers around fireplaces at The Leland Lodge and riverside tables at The Riverside Inn.

A random Saturday · 01

The Blue Stone & Bourbon Hunt

Pick up hot coffee at Leland Mercantile, spend an hour combing the icy shingle at Van's Beach for blue iron slag, hike up the windswept overlook at Clay Cliffs Natural Area, and thaw out inside an outdoor igloo at Bogey's 19th Hole.

Or try · 02

Fishtown to Fish Fry

Wander the snow-dusted shanties of Fishtown at dusk while the dam roars, taste dry Riesling at Verterra Winery, and zip five minutes east to Dick's Pour House in Lake Leelanau for a classic perch dinner.

A snowy two-track road through birch and spruce
After dark: use the slider below
Field note

Every local has a secret jar of 'Leland Blues' and 'Frankfort Greens' sitting on their kitchen windowsill.

One good day

Morning hike at Clay Cliffs, soup lunch at Trish's Dishes, afternoon photography in Fishtown and stone hunting at Van's Beach, and dinner at The Riverside Inn.

Make it a weekend

Check into Falling Waters Lodge overlooking the dam, spend Saturday exploring Fishtown, sipping espresso and wine at Dune Bird, and dining at Bogey's 19th Hole, then hit Dick's Pour House before heading home Sunday.

Eat · good tables

Tables worth scraping the windshield for.

  1. 01

    The Riverside Inn

    Historic Waterfront Bistro · $$$

    A 1902 landmark right on the Leland River serving French-inflected Northern Michigan comfort food, duck confit, and planked whitefish. Open Thursday–Sunday in winter (confirm January break dates).

    302 E River St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-9971 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Bogey's 19th Hole at The Leland Lodge

    Cozy Up-North Lodge Tavern · $$

    The dependable winter hearth of Leland—open Tuesday through Saturday with prime rib nights, hot toddies, and outdoor igloos glowing on the deck.

    565 E Pearl St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-9848 · Website ↗

  3. 03

    The Village Cheese Shanty

    Iconic Fishtown Sandwich & Cheese Shop · $$

    Even when the shanty doors close for deep-winter weekday hibernation, they open select winter holiday/weekend windows for imported wheels and hot pretzel-bread sandwiches—check their winter schedule before driving up.

    199 W River St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-9141 · Website ↗

The winter table

What to eat, and how to make it at home.

Eat it at The Riverside Inn

Smoked Lake Michigan Whitefish Chowder

Sauté leeks, celery, and Yukon gold potatoes in butter; add fish stock and heavy cream, then fold in flaky chunks of cedar-smoked Great Lakes whitefish and fresh dill just before serving.

Field note

The Cove and The Bluebird are summer legends, so in winter the village rallies hard around The Leland Lodge and Dick's Pour House.

Michigan winter
A winter tall tale · as told in Leland

The fishing shanties that learned to fly

Fishtown is one of the last working fishing villages on the Great Lakes. When high water threatened its wooden shanties, preservation crews began a careful rescue in 2020: three buildings were lifted off failing foundations, set on land, and returned to new supports. The work won a Governor's Award for Historic Preservation in 2022. Leland briefly taught its shanties to levitate.

Where it comes from: the source ↗

Photo hunt

Three things most people walk past.

Historic Fishtown (203 W River St, Leland, MI 49654)

  1. The white-and-red hull of the historic fishing tug *Joy* locked in river ice.
  2. Stacks of aluminum gill-net boxes and orange marker buoys dusted with fresh powder behind Carlson's Fishery.
  3. The concrete Leland River dam encased in sculptural curtains of turquoise ice.
Michigan winter
Michigan winter
After dark · places to land

One more round, then home.

  1. 01

    Verterra Winery Tasting Room

    Boutique Wine Lounge · $$

    Steps from Fishtown; warm wood interiors and dry Rieslings and Pinot Blancs grown on the surrounding glacial moraines.

    103 E River St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-2115 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Bogey's Bar & Wine Cellar

    Lodge Cocktail Bar · $$

    Where everyone in zip code 49654 ends up at 6 p.m. on a snowy Friday for bourbon and local gossip.

    565 E Pearl St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-9848 · Website ↗

  3. 03

    Dune Bird Winery

    Hygge Wine & Espresso Lounge · $$

    Just up M-22 north of Leland; aviation-themed, sheepskin-draped chairs, late winter hours, and both cool-climate wines and craft espresso.

    5620 N Manitou Trl, Northport, MI 49670 · (231) 613-4100 · Website ↗

Winter Firsts playing cards
In the pictureWinter Firsts playing cardsFor the euchre rematch nobody asked for, at a corner table in Leland.From the General Store →
  1. 01

    Leland Mercantile Co.

    Coffee & breakfast

    The village general store; grab hot locally roasted coffee, house-smoked bacon, and fresh baked goods before walking down to the beach.

    102 S Main St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-9030 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Dune Bird Winery Espresso Bar

    Coffee & breakfast

    Full craft espresso bar with hygge fireplaces just up the coast road from Leland.

    5620 N Manitou Trl, Northport, MI 49670 · (231) 613-4100 · Website ↗

Coffee & breakfast · start here

Coffee, and a seat by the window.

Outside · ways out the door

Go stand in it.

  1. 01

    Walking the Frozen Docks of Historic Fishtown

    Outside

    The wooden docks and river walk remain open 24/7 all winter; watch Lake Michigan ice volcanoes erupt past the breakwall.

    203 W River St, Leland, MI 49654 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Beachcombing for Leland Blue Stones at Van's Beach

    Outside

    Winter gales churn up the shoreline gravel, making post-storm thaws the prime season to spot glassy blue 19th-century iron-smelting slag.

    End of W Cedar St, Leland, MI 49654 · Website ↗

  3. 03

    Suttons Bay Bikes (Nearest Full Winter Outfitter, 15 min east)

    Rent the gear

    Snowshoes, cross-country skis, and fat bikes for Clay Cliffs and Leelanau trails

    318 N St Joseph St, Suttons Bay, MI 49682 · Website ↗

Quiet Season scarf
In the pictureQuiet Season scarfLong enough to wrap twice and still blow sideways off the Leland shore.From the General Store →
Field note

Checking how high the spray ice has built up on the Fishtown dam walkway.

Michigan winter
Local custom

Walking down to Van's Beach with a thermos of coffee the morning after a northwest gale to see what the waves threw up.

Local customs
  • Checking how high the spray ice has built up on the Fishtown dam walkway.
  • Every local has a secret jar of 'Leland Blues' and 'Frankfort Greens' sitting on their kitchen windowsill.
  • The Cove and The Bluebird are summer legends, so in winter the village rallies hard around The Leland Lodge and Dick's Pour House.
On the calendar · 2026–27

Dates worth the drive.

Circle it

Usually weekends from late November through December, with year-round dock access

Fishtown Winter & Holiday Hours Celebration

Evergreen garlands on weathered 1900s gill-net tugs (*Joy* and *Janice Sue*) and luminaries lighting the snowy wooden docks.

Organizer ↗

Circle it

Usually Friday after Thanksgiving, confirm

Light Up Leland

Organizer ↗

Dates come from organizers and change. Check before you drive.

Michigan winter
Michigan winter
  1. 01

    The Leland Lodge

    Classic Up-North Resort Lodge · $$$

    Set on a quiet wooded hill four blocks from Fishtown with nightly winter bonfires, on-site tavern dining, and snowshoe packages.

    565 E Pearl St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-9848 · Website ↗

  2. 02

    Falling Waters Lodge

    Waterfront Fishtown Motel · $$

    Perched directly over the roaring Leland River waterfall and Fishtown shanties; fall asleep to the sound of rushing water and Lake Michigan rollers.

    200 W Cedar St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-9832 · Website ↗

  3. 03

    The Riverside Inn Rooms

    Historic Riverfront Inn · $$

    Four quiet, charming upstairs guest rooms directly above one of the best dining rooms on the peninsula.

    302 E River St, Leland, MI 49654 · (231) 256-9971 · Website ↗

Stay · places to wake up

A warm bed at the end of it.

Some Assembly Required puzzle
In the pictureSome Assembly Required puzzleA thousand pieces for the night nobody is going out.From the General Store →
Bring a little Leland homeThe deer beanieStandard issue for a walk to the bakery at seven below.Have a look ↗
We checked

fishtownmi.org · leelanauconservancy.org · lelandlodge.com · lelandmi.org · theriverside-inn.com

Good to know: Famous summer waterfront spots The Cove and The Bluebird close for the winter season; stick to Bogey's, The Riverside Inn (confirm Jan/Feb weekend schedule), Trish's Dishes, and nearby Dick's Pour House.

Reviewed October 2026. Hours, prices and dates move; call ahead in January and February.