Traverse City
The cherry capital sheds its summer flip-flops for Nordic skis, cellar-aged stouts, and surprisingly serious winter dining.
The TART Trails grooming report is read every morning with the intensity of the Wall Street Journal.
The Asylum & Ale Loop
Start with an espresso at Higher Grounds inside Building 50 at The Village at Grand Traverse Commons, snowshoe the steep cedar ridges behind the historic barns, then descend into the brick subterranean tunnels for lunch at Trattoria Stella.
The TART to Farm Sprint
Rent a studded fat bike from Brick Wheels on E 8th Street, pedal four snowy miles northwest up the Leelanau Trail straight to Farm Club for a bowl of winter squash soup and a dark lager, then coast back into town for a nightcap at Low Bar.
Morning Nordic ski on the Vasa 10k loop, lunch burger at Slabtown, afternoon browse through Horizon Books on Front Street, and a four-course Italian supper at Trattoria Stella.
Check into Delamar on Friday for a steamed-pool swim. Spend Saturday skiing Hickory Hills and touring Old Mission Peninsula wineries before subterranean cocktails at Low Bar. Wrap up Sunday with a farm-trail trek to Farm Club and a roast coffee send-off at Mundos.
- 01
Trattoria Stella
Tucked into the brick tunnels of the former Traverse City State Hospital, where Chef Myles Anton turns local root vegetables and house-cured charcuterie into a religious experience. Open year-round; reservations are non-negotiable on winter weekends.
830 Cottageview Dr, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 929-8989 · Website ↗
- 02
The Cooks' House
A 26-seat room where chefs Eric Patterson and Jen Blakeslee treat winter cellar crops and Great Lakes whitefish like couture. Tiny, warm, and the exact antidote to a gray February wind.
115 Wellington St, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 946-8700 · Website ↗
- 03
Farm Club
Ski or fat-bike straight up the TART Leelanau Trail to eat fermented winter squash, hearty grain bowls, and crisp house lagers in a sunlit timber dining room overlooking snow-blanketed fields.
10051 S Lake Leelanau Dr, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 252-3079 · Website ↗
Pork Ragù over House-Made Pasta
Braise heritage Michigan pork shoulder low and slow for four hours in red wine, crushed tomatoes, garlic, and rosemary; shred and toss with wide pappardelle and a blizzard of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Three things most people walk past.
- The original cast-iron ventilation grates set into the yellow-brick Victorian turrets.
- The lone 'Hippie Tree'—a massive gnarled willow buried in the woods behind the hospital painted with decades of neon layers.
- Icicles hanging six feet long off the deep eaves of the unrestored north cottages.
- 01
The Little Fleet
When the summer food trucks roll away, the indoor bar turns into the living room of East Front Street—hosting winter kitchen takeovers, vinyl nights, and sharp cocktails.
448 E Front St, Traverse City, MI 49686 · (231) 943-1116 · Website ↗
- 02
Low Bar
Down the stairs beneath 7 Monks. Dim lights, leather booths, pre-Prohibition pours, and not a single window to remind you it is 14 degrees outside.
128 S Union St, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 944-5397 · Website ↗
- 03
7 Monks Taproom
Forty-six taps skewing heavily toward barrel-aged Michigan stouts and Belgian abbey ales, paired with giant soft pretzels and Brussels sprouts.
128 S Union St, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 421-8410 · Website ↗
- 01
Mundos Roasting & Co. (305)
Precision-roasted single origins in a bright downtown corner space where the ski-rack crowd trades trail wax gossip at 7:30 a.m.
305 W Front St, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 590-2329 · Website ↗
- 02
Higher Grounds Trading Co.
Located inside the historic Commons; grab an organic cortado before walking the snow-draped arboretum trails behind the old brick Kirkbride wards.
806 Red Dr, Ste 150, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 922-9009 · Website ↗
- 03
BLK \ MRKT Coffee
Industrial warehouse aesthetic near the bay shore serving killer spiced winter lattes and flaky pastries.
144 Hall St, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 421-1304 · Website ↗
- 01
Nordic Skiing & Fat Biking on the Vasa Pathway
Daily PistonBully grooming by TART Trails across 3k, 5k, 10k, and 25k loops.
Vasa Trailhead, 4450 Bartlett Rd, Williamsburg, MI 49690 (East of TC) · Website ↗
- 02
Downhill Runs & Tubing at Hickory Hills
The city-owned municipal ski hill since 1952, with a handsome modern lodge, rope tows, and night skiing overlooking the bay.
- 03
Brick Wheels
Nordic ski packages, alpine skis, snowshoes, and winter fat bikes
Local customChecking whether the bay has frozen all the way out to Power Island (a benchmark of a real winter).
- Leaving your fat-bike tire pressure at 4 PSI from December through March.
- Calling tourists 'fudgies' in July, but buying any winter visitor a beer in February because you know they really wanted to be here.
- No one complains about 'The Commons' being haunted; they just buy sourdough and Pinot Noir in the basement tunnels.
- Hickory Hills is sacred ground—generous generations of locals learned to snowplow on its municipal rope tows.
- Winter is when hospitality workers finally go out to eat at each other's restaurants.
February 13–14, 2027
51st Annual North American Vasa Festival of Races
Michigan's premier citizen cross-country ski and fat-bike marathon through the deep hardwoods of the Pere Marquette State Forest.
February 21–27, 2027
Traverse City Restaurant Week
The best week of the winter to snag multi-course prix-fixe menus at spots that usually require a two-month summer wait.
December 31, 2026
CherryT Ball Drop
Thousands pack the snowy intersection to watch a giant illuminated cherry descend while raising money for local food pantries.
Usually early December (first Saturday of December, confirm)
Downtown Light Parade & Santa's Arrival
- 01
Delamar Traverse City
Right on West Grand Traverse Bay with a heated outdoor pool that steams into the lake-effect squalls, plus winter lakeside igloos.
615 E Front St, Traverse City, MI 49686 · (231) 947-3700 · Website ↗
- 02
Park Place Hotel
The 1930s brick beacon of downtown. Take the elevator up to the Beacon Lounge on the top floor to watch snowplows choreograph Front Street below.
300 E State St, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 946-5000 · Website ↗
- 03
Hotel Indigo Traverse City
Logging-era design nods, Warehouse District walkability, and H&L Social on the roof for bay views without frostbite.
263 W Grandview Pkwy, Traverse City, MI 49684 · (231) 932-0500 · Website ↗
Bring a little Traverse City homeThe heavyweight deer teeThe base layer that becomes the only layer by March.Have a look ↗